Anyone know much about russian tortioses?? I have two, and i've got a few questions for someone that really knows their stuff! Thanks

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Originally posted by Adrianne:
Anyone know much about russian tortioses?? I have two, and i've got a few questions for someone that really knows their stuff! Thanks

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I was born and raised in CA and was a member of the San Diego Turtle and Tortoise Society for many, many yrs. Our mission was to educate pet stores and owners on their care. Box turtles were my favorites, but I also had Russian tortoise, spur thy and the California desert. I had a small turtle hospital in my house and would treat upper respiratory infections, tympanic abscess, parasites and injuries. You would not believe how many were brought to me from being hit with lawn mowers. When I moved to TN I was crushed to have to leave my turtles behind, but tortoises can not handle high humidity and tend to get mouth rot which can kill them. They make wonderful pets and live forever (well, it seems like forever) and my oldest who's still in CA with family is over 60yrs and was left to me by my great-grandmother. If there's anything I can help you with please let me know. My number is (931)537-9956

Well thank you! it's nice to see someone jumping at an oppertunity to teach! It really was'nt anything all that serious, just a few simple questions. I've had my 2 for about 3 years now, and i'm just wondering about a couple of things. Hibernation? How to make it easier for them to breed? My male seems fairly interested in my female, but it seems she's just not comfortable. As far as injuries, none have occured, so that's always a good sign. Basically, just questions on they're hibernation occurences (if any) because mine haven't yet, and what will make it easier for them to feel comfortable with eachother so they can breed. Thanks so much for your help, i sincerely appreciate it.

OK please do not allow your tortoise to hibernate! Unless they are outside and you live in a state that stays freezing all winter the turtle will in time die. What happens in the wild is when the temp drops the turtle will dig a very deep hole and remain until the first thaw. The problem with this in captivity is the temp does not get or stay cold enough for the turtles metabolism to drop to a crawl and the turtle ends up starving to death. Now some will argue this since they do it and theirs have survived for yrs, but this is only if the animal gains enough fat resources to sustain and many times they don't. What you need to do is keep the turtle warm all yr by providing heat lamps and vital lights. The warmer you keep your turtle the more active they will be and more they will eat.

As far as breeding the male will bob is head and chase her everywhere until he does his deed. There's no cause to worry it's all normal. Just let them do what's natural. When she does lay she will look for a sandy place to dig so make sure there's one available or she will keep her eggs within and become egg bound which requires surgery. After she done laying allow her to burry them and soon after carefully dig them up and be sure you keep them in the same position she left them. Their eggs are soft and leather like. The only chance you have for them to hatch is to incubate them yourself. I've done this many times and there's nothing sweeter than a baby turtle the size of a dime.

Please make sure you are adding vit supplements to their diet like Rep Cal and Herptavite. Most times it's impossible for them to get the vits they need by diet alone. I hope this helps and if you have anymore questions please ask away. I love talking turtle!

I've never "allowed" them in the past because i wasn't sure of it myself, and didn't want to take the risk. Becides, there isn't enough soil for them to hibernate in as it is.

--How am i to know if she is eggbound? What do i look for? I never knew about having sand in there so she very well may be right now, and that worries me...what type of sand should i use? Would repti-sand work, or does it even matteR?

Any suggestions on incubating them?? Heat lamps? I've incubated a doves egg before, and simply used a heat lamp and blanket, and it worked fine, but do you have any suggestions with the tortioses?--Last but not least, i am giving them supplements, so that's not a problem. If there's one thing i'm a stickler about, it's making sure that my animals get the proper diet. Which reminds me...what do you feed the baby tortioses?? lol sorry i have so many questions, i just really want' to be prepared! Thanks so much!

The chances of her being egg bound and you not knowing is very small. Most times they stop eating and will have discharge coming from the cloacae so as long as she's acting normal I'm sure she's fine. Any kind of sand works well, I always used kiddy sand the kind for sandboxes.

Hatching the eggs is very difficult and if you've not seen them complete mating I doubt the eggs will be viable. She may lay some, but I doubt they've been fertilized. As far as hatching you'll need to buy and incubator just for turtle eggs. It's been a long while since I've done it so you'll need to see how long it takes and what temp they should be for that species of turtle.

I'm so glad you're feeing the right diet and vits. Too many owners try and wing it and that's how so many die. It's such a breath of fresh air to hear of an owner doing the right thing.

Sorry I didn't answer sooner my internet has been acting up. It does this every winter. Hope this helps.

Here's some helpful info.

General Information: Testudo horsfieldii is known variously as the Russian, the Afgan, the Steepe, and the Horsfield tortoise. This tortoise is found primarily in Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, southeastern Russia, and China. Its native environment is harsh and arid, and includes sandy steppes, as well as grassy areas close to springs in arid, rocky, hilly terrain. It is found at elevations as high as 5,000 to 7,000 feet. This tortoise has the northernmost range of any known tortoise.

T. horsfieldii is a great digger and hibernates in deep burrows during the winter, and in the southern parts of its range it aestivates (experiences a dormant period) during the summer. In its native environment, this tortoise is active for only about three months of the year, typically March, April and May.



Description: T. horsfieldii averages five to eight inches long with a rather flat, roundish, yellow-green or olive carapace (top of the shell). Males are usually smaller than the females and are most easily sexed by the male’s tail, which is longer and thicker than the female’s (when withdrawn in its shell, the male’s tail will lie against its thigh). The plastron (underside of the shell) is usually blotched with black or may be black all over.



Captive Environment: T. horsfieldii is a hardy species, but it does have some specific needs. It requires a very dry, well-drained land area in a secure outdoor enclosure. The enclosure should have appropriate landscaping, with a covered or indoor area for use in wet and cold weather. T. horsfieldii should never be kept indoors for any sustained period of time for it will not do well!



Safety: Tortoises must be protected from all dogs (they tend to see tortoises as one big bone that walks). Raccoons, foxes, and coyotes are also dangers to tortoises, while ravens and blue jays will kill small tortoises unless they are protected with some kind of screening over their outdoor enclosure.



Outdoor Enclosure Guidelines:



* Provide an outdoor enclosure as large as you can make it in a bright, sunny location. The bigger the better.

* One adult tortoise should have at least a 6 ft x 6 ft enclosure. More tortoises = more required space.

* The perimeter of the enclosure should be made of solid fencing at least 12” high. If they can see through it, they want to go through it. Suggestions:

* Redwood or cedar planks.

* Concrete blocks or bricks.

* T. horsfieldii is an excellent digger, so you need to protect the perimeter. Suggestions:

* Construct a fenced enclosure about 18” high, then backfill the interior with about 6” of loamy or sandy soil.

* Dig a narrow trench about 6-8” deep around the perimeter and fill it with concrete.

* Dig a narrow trench about 6-8” deep around the perimeter and sink 10-12” wide aluminum flashing into it. Secure the top of the flashing to the base of the fence.

* Sink concrete blocks or tiles into the perimeter.

* The interior of the enclosure should be interesting and varied. T. Horsfieldii should not be kept on damp soil or grass. If kept on damp ground, you can expect skin, shell and respiratory problems.

* The soil should be loamy or sandy. Make some gentle mounds in the enclosure and add some rocks. Tortoises like to angle themselves against rocks, mounds of dirt, etc. to catch the rays of the sun.

* Plant non-poisonous shrubby vegetation. (The SDTTS has a list of poisonous plants to avoid, as well as a list of edible plants you can use for landscaping.)

* Provide shade, using plants and/or a shade box (as simple as a 3-sided wood box, or a concrete block box with a top).

* Provide a “house” for use in wet and cold weather.

* Build a house out of concrete blocks covered with a board. Stuff Styrofoam or pour sand into the holes in the blocks for added insulation. Cover the doorway with vinyl cut into strips to keep the weather out and heat in (you can use vinyl carpet runner, polyethylene sheeting, etc.)

* Use a doghouse and install a door “curtain.” Provide a ramp up to the door.

* Build a specialty tortoise house. (The SDTTS has guidelines on building a tortoise house.)

Note: In San Diego County, it is not necessary to provide artificial heating for T. horsfieldii, except in the inland areas where temperatures can dip into the 30’s or below at night. If providing artificial heat, day temperatures should be set in the 700 to 800 F range), and nighttime temperatures should be set in the 60’s. Put a thermometer at tortoise level.

* Provide fresh water on a daily basis. The bowl(s) should be sunk into the ground and shallow enough for a tortoise to climb in and out of. The water should only just cover the lowest edge of the carapace. These tortoises cannot swim and can drown in water that goes over their head. Suggestion:

* Buy a large diameter plastic flowerpot saucer from your local nursery. Sink it into the ground so the lip is even with the surrounding soil. It’s easy to clean and fill.



Feeding: The tortoise’s natural diet consists of herbaceous and succulent vegetation including grasses, twigs, flowers and some fruits. These tortoises DO NOT EAT ANIMAL PROTEIN! The best diet is one that comes as close as possible to their natural diet. Ideally, the tortoise should graze on edible plants in its enclosure. However, you will find that they will eat many plants down to the roots and that’s the end of the plant. One way around this is to grow edible plants outside the enclosure, in a totally pesticide-free environment, and give these to the tortoise. Provide a varied assortment.



Also, lightly sprinkle their food with calcium carbonate to provide a good source of calcium needed to help prevent bone problems. The following are some of the best weeds, grasses, and flowers for a healthy tortoise:



Clovers Grasses (Common Bermuda, Timothy, Rye, Fescue, Bluegrass)

Coreopsis Hibiscus

Daisy Honeysuckle

Dandelion Mallows

Endive Nasturtium

Escarole Opuntia cacti

Gazania Petunias

Geranium Roses

Grape leaves Sedums

(not grape ivy!)



Just be careful not to overfeed T. horsfieldii, as they tend to be overweight in captivity. If they are starting to look chubby when they pull back into their shells, cut back a little on the amount you are feeding.



Common Ailments: Tortoises are especially susceptible to respiratory ailments. Some of the signs to watch for are runny nose, labored breathing/gasping, loss of appetite, and decreased activity.



Calcium deficiency is a major problem, which can cause soft shells, shell and bone deformities, kidney damage, and possibly death. This condition can be prevented with a high quality diet (as recommended above), supplemented with calcium carbonate lightly sprinkled on their food.



Sunken eyes indicate dehydration, which can lead to kidney failure and death. If dehydration is suspected, immediately soak the tortoise in barely lukewarm water covering the edge of the carapace for 30 minutes or so. Soaking tortoises once or twice a week is a good way to keep them properly hydrated.



Internal parasites are common in tortoises, and they should be dewormed on an annual basis or as recommended by your vet. (It’s a good idea to wash your hands immediately after handling a tortoise, or any reptile, though most tortoise pathogens are not transmissible to humans.)



Wounds can be caused by aggressive mating behaviors. If found, treat immediately by cleaning the wound and applying an antibiotic ointment. If the wound is open, keep the animal inside until the wound heals to prevent infestation by maggots.



In any case, immediately contact your veterinarian if you suspect your tortoise is ill, or an injury does not heal properly or appears to be severe.

BREEDING: After hibernation (where temps stay below 30 degrees all winter) and all through the summer, the male will attempt mating with the female. This consists of bobbing his head and circling around her, biting at her head and shell edges to make her pull her head in. When the position is right, he will climb onto her back to mate. Do not be alarmed, as this is normal behavior. Once fertilized, the female can lay fertile eggs for up to 5 years!

Be alert to the possibility that a male might “court” a female with such persistence and gusto that she becomes intimidated, stops eating and drinking, and in extreme cases may not leave the tortoise house. Such stress must be prevented. Prevention is easily accomplished by separating them for a period of time.

EGG LAYING: Usually in late spring or early summer, the female will begin pacing, looking for the right spot to lay her eggs. She may decrease or stop eating at this time and may seem quite agitated. Sometimes it is very helpful if you prepare one or more areas in your yard by loosening the soil or sand then softly packing it back down. Do this in areas where she has shown special interest. (If she does not eventually lay the eggs, you may need to have her checked for egg binding through an x-ray.)

When ready, she will dig a hole with her back legs, deposit her eggs into the hole and cover them up. Do not disturb her while she is doing her maternal duties. After she leaves the area, it may be a good idea to soak her to rehydrate her. Tortoises do not provide care for their young.

If the eggs are left in the ground or incubated, they may hatch. Care of hatchlings is a huge long term commitment. Unless you are experienced in raising hatchlings and have good homes and knowledgeable people lined up in advance, then we recommend that you dig up the eggs immediately and destroy them.

wow!! That was some pretty helpful info. Thanks so much for your response, i truely appreciate it!

quote:

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Originally posted by Adrianne:
wow!! That was some pretty helpful info. Thanks so much for your response, i truely appreciate it!

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Oh, it's my pleasure! I now live in TN and turtle rescue is not needed here since it's illegal to sell box turtles in pet stores and you find them in your own backyard. I do rescue many from our roads though. I miss it so much and it was a joy to help you out. Now I'm passionate about the rescue and education of prairie dogs.

WE JUST BOUGHT A RUSSIAN TOTRIOSE (#2) AND WE NOTICED THAT HIS RIGHT NORTRLE IS WET IN SIDE AND FROM TIME TO TIME IT BUBBLES OUT OF HIS NOSE. MY OTHER TORTIOSE DOES NOT DO THAT DO YOU NOW WHY THIS IS GOING ON?

Sounds like he has a cold or an upper respiratory infection. You need to take him to a vet to be put on antibiotics.

Hi there! I have just inhereted a wonderful female Russian Tortoise., named Otis. I have been reading up on the best care for her and want to move her out of the 40 gallon tank she was living in (sad I know) and into our wonderful garden! i am doing my research on how to build the new home, but my main question is can my tortoise live outside all year round, or do I need to build an indoor area as well. I live in Santa Monica CA. DOes it get too cold in the winter? Can tortoises do well in the rain if they have shelter. And do I need to set up a heated area? I really want to create a comfortable enviornment and am happy to do anything needed. If you have any advice please let me know! Thank you -

Hi,

I a male russian tortoise and I wanted to buy him a few more indoor house items. However, I'm not sure all on what he would like. Um... so far I have logs, dishes and thats about it. What do they like to have? and do they like Waterfalls??? Thanks....